Cycle Travel: Xinqiwen.com does Italy!
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Cycle Travel: Xinqiwen.com does Italy! |
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Today I find myself to be a lucky man. I'm in Italy! I can't tell you how happy I am to be here. I feel like I've died and gone to cycling heaven!
For many years gone by, I have been watching Giro dvd's from the safety of my rollers, set up in my bedroom at home. I've dreampt up a long term plan to ride the streets of Italy, eat Italian food, drink Italian coffee, soak up the vistas, and . . . er . . . ride the streets of Italy some more. When I was 22 years old I met a girl, and little did I know that our meeting would set in motion my path towards that Italian dream. Seven years later, I would marry my wonderful lady, and her Italian heritage gave us the perfect excuse to get married in Lake Como. . . and yes. . . the perfect excuse for me to bring my bike riding adventure to life! I am the luckiest man alive.
Il Duomo in Milan - a sight to be seen with your own two eyes!
We had a forgettable long haul flight to Milan from Shanghai, via Munich. I wont go into details, but in summary, my bike was lost in transit for several days, and when it finally turned up there was visable damage and missing kit and tools. I couldn't believe my precious baggage had been so carelessly pushed around the globe. After a few calls and a visit to a shop, I shook myself off and remembered that I was on the trip of a life time - don't let it get you down Ruobai! So without further delay, I decided to brave the group ride in Milan on "day one" (with bike).
I left the hotel early and headed to the meeting spot. On the way to the ride I rode up behind a rider in full Team LPR kit. I decided to try my best Italian and ask where I can find a 'groupetto'. And so my adventure officially began . . .
The boys and Achile in his LPR kit in the centre above (please note white arm and leg warmers. . . )
I was met with helpfulness and the kindest hospitality! This stranger introduced himself as Achille and kindly escorted me to where the group was meeting. He explained on the way that there were two races on that day, so the group may be quite small. It was a slightly overcast morning and the riders met in front of a beautiful local church. We set off across Milan and had a great chat about the usual cycling topics (which wheels you feel are the best right now and our favourite riders). Achille was a huge Alessadro Petacchi fan (another vote for the gentleman sprinter), and we settled on the Campagnolo Bora as the 'wheel of the moment'. As the ride went on I met more of the local riders who were amazingly hospitable and spoke excellent English - I was embarrassed by my poor French and Italian!
Please note - I understand I am overusing the exclamation mark in this story so far. Franky I'm too excited to care. Please see aforementioned references to lifelong dreams.
Once we reached Como it was time to ride the climb where Paolo Bettini attacked during Lombardy. I recognised the slope immediately, and felt a sense of honour overcome me. It was an excellent feeling just knowing you were pedaling along at a spot where cycling history had been made - I was also lucky enough to have a commentary on the climb from one of the local riders.
Life skill: taking photos while riding your bike with no hands . . .
After my brief visit to Milan, I headed Bergamo! My fiance and I rented a Fiat Panda (the perfect car for Chinese visitors to Italy!). We hadn't done much research on Bergamo, but took the advice of our Milanese hostess, and drove East to explore. I must admit a very strong liking for Bergamo. Not only because I was able to ride part of the Giro course from 2007 – right at the spot where Gilberto Simoni attacked near the finish, only to be caught by a flying Stefano Garzelli (one of my all time personal favourites) only to complain that Garzelli had used the moto to catch him and win the sprint. I also loved Bergamo because of the wonderful hospitality of our hosts at L'angolo del poeta (Poets Corner? This may show my soft spot for Robbie Burns. . .) www.http://www.angolodelpoeta.com/. This was certainly one city familiar with great riding, excellent topography, some pretty good bike shops and brilliant food.
A local rider in Bergamo out to enjoy the sunshine
Riding past the ancient vineyards of Bergamo - belissimo!!
From Bergamo we zipped across Northern Italy to La Spezia for a few days. I will credit my friend and Thailand resident Andrew Hay with the "first to recognize the home of Alessandro Petacchi” award. Yes, La Spezia is where he grew up, and if you were to visit the city of La Spezia yourself, you would know why he is such a great sprinter – my guess is that he was in a hurry to get the hell out of there. It certainly wasn't the best I'd seen of Italy, having been so spoiled up to that point. Anyone from La Spezia out there? Sorry to say, but the city itself is a little sleazy. I can see the beauty it once had, which isn't sitting far below it's surface. My wife enjoyed the marina and a few train trips up the coast, but after Milan and Bergamo I think we'd become accustomed to perfectly quaint tratorias and alleys, and a great sense of safety, history, and beauty, so La Spezia was a little broken in comparison. Once out of the city centre however, the riding became BRILLIANT. La Spezia is surrounded by oceans and mountains. Have a look at these pictures!
I took in a long climb to get you this photo. . .
La Spezia's beautiful bay at dusk
La Spezia had some incredible vistas on the Cinque Terre and I really enjoyed myself out on the rides - I would strongly suggest a visit to this region for a cycling specific vacation. It was only a short 3 days before we moved on to our next cycling locale!
You'll have to read Part II of this article next week to find out the bliss that is riding in Tuscany, with a special holiday ending in Lago de Como! Oh yes, and a wedding too!
My friends knew how good they had it. . . riding the rolling hills of Tuscany . . . life doesn't get better!
The road to our cottage - the moody Tuscan countryside!
The view from my Tuscan retreat and cycling base - www.agrifuturismo.com. No nicer place to pedal on this green earth. . .
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